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"Farewell Messel"

Stephany Isabella Cataldo Lago

Profile picture of Stephany Isabella Cataldo Lago

Stephany Cataldo is a costume assistant based between the UK and America. Working across multiple disciplines such as fashion and film production, Steph is interested in working on projects that bring hope to today's society. She has several years of experience in the world of fashion, having been trained in this subject in New York City. Now, she has just accomplished her first short film, Nightgown, upon her master's degree graduation in Costume from the University of Arts of London.

She is usually inspired by period films like “Emma” (2020) and “Jane Eyre” (1996) or by musical films and musicals such as Moulin Rouge (2001) and West Side Story (both versions). She feels passionate about cabaret costumes, period costumes (1800s-1900s), and 50s fashion. 

Stephany Cataldo is a costume assistant based between the UK and America. Working across mu...

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This costume is inspired by the last opera that Oliver Messel (1904-1978) designed for Glyndebourne Opera House, Der Rosenkavalier (1959). It includes elements that reference the dramatic ornamentation of 18th-century Rococo, such as the colour palette, trims, and satin fabric. It also draws inspiration from 1950s fashions: the corset and the silhouette of the dress.

The design in the centre of the skirt was made by hand using embroidery techniques, including appliqué and couching. This flower is a replica of a design found on a fan that Messel made for his mum when he was a teenager, at Nymans. The intention of the design was to honour and bid “Farewell” to Messel’s work at Glyndebourne.

Sometimes goodbyes are hard, and we do not realise that everything we had was precious in ways we never imagined...

Farewell, Messel.

Final work

Right side of the dress.
Back of the dress where we see the lace and the corselette details.

In this image, closer details of the costume are shown. The lace placed on the sleeves comes from a vintage piece from the beginning of the 20th century. One of the central approaches of the project is to recycle fabric and garment pieces, working with the resources the artist had access to.

Central embroidered design.

The central design is composed of fabric bits that come from Glyndebourne's deadstock. Attached to the skirt first with UV glue and then machine/hand-couched.

Farewell Messel

Through this video the artist, using a paper rose made from Der Rosenkavalier music pieces, wants to bid "Farewell" to Messel's work at Glyndebourne by the use of fire and the representation of Messel through the use of paper roses.

Research and process

In the image we can see the final drawing, backed by some fabric swatches that the artist used to make the costume.

Final drawing and fabric swatches.

Moodboards and research.

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"Farewell Messel"

This costume is inspired by the last opera that Oliver Messel (1904-1978) designed for Glyndebourne Opera House, Der Rosenkavalier (1959). It includes elements that reference the dramatic ornamentation of 18th-century Rococo, such as the colou...

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