Daniel Marston

My final collection seeks to highlight the elements of fashion that matter most to me, while also creating something my younger self would have found inspiring and empowering.

The research began by exploring and deconstructing archetypal elements of queer style, such as denim jeans and the tank top. Influenced by the work of Karlheinz Weinberger and Hal Fischer, both of whom captured queer aesthetics and homoerotic imagery, I started to weave these themes into my designs. Garment construction became a central focus in my development, leading me to investigate traditional design details found in selvedge denim jeans and North East fishermen's ganseys. Features such as copper rivets, lockstitch embroidery, and intricate purl and cable stitches became recurring motifs throughout the collection.

The final pieces merge these traditional elements with contemporary references to queer style. The denim garments showcase raw Japanese selvedge denim, enhanced with embroidery inspired by the hanky code and the kinds of doodles young boys often scrawl on school books and desks when bored. The shirting and tailoring incorporate classic construction techniques, such as structured waistbands and heavily fused collars. The knitwear was developed by deconstructing the tank top silhouettes I explored during research, and reimagining them using my own combinations of cabling and purl stitch patterns—crafted in Shetland wool as a tribute to my family’s history in knitwear manufacturing.

Rich in personal references, this collection draws attention to a history of queer style that my younger self had little exposure to, while also showcasing the garment construction knowledge I’ve developed throughout my education. A Note to My Younger Self is rooted in quality, craftsmanship, and queer visibility.